Saturday, May 31, 2008

Eclairs

In conjunction with the TWD selection of Sticky Honey Buns, I had all the best intentions of making Raisin Snails with the remaining brioche dough. I even made a vanilla pastry cream the day before as I was proofing the dough. I thought to myself --- for once , I wasn’t running around like a lunatic trying to pull a recipe together at the last minute (I know you can relate to this!). Being planned and organized isn’t in my DNA, so of course I shelved the snail recipe at the last minute. So, what should I do with the delicious pastry cream that is sitting in the frig…ECLAIRS!













Eclairs are such a special treat, and they are surprisingly easy to make. The trick is getting down the technique for choux paste. The dough is unique as you cook it twice: on the stove then in the oven.













This dough never fails to amaze me, as a pretty simple dough balloons into a beautiful puff pastry. This dough can also be savory, with the addition of cheese and herbs, to make delicious gougeres.

Twice Baked Chocolate Cake (aka Choc Cake Bread Pudding)

Earlier this month, I had a disappointing experience with a chocolate cake recipe, resulting with a VERY DRY cake. I really hate throwing away food, especially in this case as the cake was made with really good chocolate/cocoa powder and other high quality ingredients. So, this poor forlorn cake sat in the kitchen over a week, as I contemplated its future. What to do --- make a trifle, layer it in a parfait? --- then it dawned on me…BREAD PUDDING!!!! I took my go-to bread pudding recipe, substituted the bread with the cake, and eliminated the sugar in the custard base. Here is the original recipe for Bread Pudding, with my adjustments in parentheses:

Bread Pudding

Ingredients

½ loaf stale challah or French bread (6 C. stale/dry chocolate cake cut into cubes)

1 C milk

2 C heavy cream

3 eggs

¾ C sugar (excluded)

¼ tsp cinnamon (increased to ½ tsp)

1 tsp orange zest (excluded)

1 tbsp vanilla extract

½ C raisins (excluded)

½ C chopped pecans (substituted ½ C choc chips)


Instructions

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter a baking dish.


In a large bowl, beat together milk, cream, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, orange zest and vanilla. Add cubed bread and stir to combine. Add raisins and pecans and stir to combine. Pour mixture into prepared pan. (As the cake is more fragile than bread, I first placed the cake cubes and choc chips in the baking dish, combined the remaining ingredients, and poured the custard mixture over the cake cubes.)


Bake until browned and custard is set, approximately 1 hour.

















The verdict ---I was absolutely surprised that this could pass for a respectable dessert! You really don’t see the layers of cake as you would with a bread pudding, but it does remind me of a flourless chocolate cake or a fallen soufflĂ© cake. Thanks to my fellow foodies at chowhound for helping me brainstorm through this problem!


Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Brioche

In my prior TWD post for Pecan Honey Sticky Buns, I mentioned a different technique for making brioche dough, which I will share here. I recently completed a terrific 10 week pro-baking course at a local cooking school, New School of Cooking. I was thrilled to find out that we would be learning how to make brioche during one of the weeks. As we started assembling our ingredients and brought out the kitchen aid mixers, I was very surprised to see that we would be using the PADDLE attachment instead of the dough hook to mix the dough. I really like this technique as it doesn't force my poor hardworking kitchen aid mixer into overdrive! Here are the quick instructions to making the dough (any recipe can be used, but the basic technique is the same):

- combine warm water/milk and yeast, and allow for yeast to dissolve
- add dry ingredients (flour, sugar, salt) and mix to combine
- 0nce the mixture starts looking lumpy, add eggs one at a time. Once all eggs are added, turn mixer up to low/medium and mix for approx 5 minutes. The purpose of this is to extract all the gluten out of the flour. Contrary to what I've read in cookbooks, we were told to mix at a lower speed as you don't want to aerate the dough. At the end of this mixing time, you want to see 1/2 of the mixture sticking to the sides of the bowl and the other 1/2 sticking to the paddle. You should see "strings" of dough stretching from the paddle to the side of the bowl. If the dough still clumps in the middle, add a little water to loosen.
- turn the mixer to low and add the butter to incorporate (takes me 2-3 minutes). Not overmixing is emphasized here, as overmixing will warm up the butter. - at this point, the dough should be very soft, but hold together with noticable elasticity
- proofing and baking instructions are similar to that in Dorie Greenspan's recipe.



































Ideally, the brioche crumb should look tight and dense, like pound cake. As you can see here with all of the little air pockets and lack of a tight crumb, I was not successful in my handiwork this weekend. Still, trust me, as this technique has worked almost everytime for me.














Regardless of technique, the taste of the final product was delicious. Thank you Dorie for another wonderful recipe!
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